After months of speculation, Chanel has named its new artistic director. On Thursday, Matthieu Blazy — most recently, the creative director of luxury Italian label Bottega Veneta — was appointed to one of the most high-profile jobs in fashion. Blazy is only the fourth head designer of the French fashion house founded in 1910, and follows on from Virginie Viard, Karl Lagerfeld and Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. In contrast, Dior, founded in 1946, has had seven creative directors.

In a press release, Chanel’s president of fashion Bruno Pavlovsky said he was “delighted” with Blazy’s appointment. “I am convinced that he will be able to play with the codes and heritage of the House, through an ongoing dialogue with the studio, our ateliers, and our Maisons d’art,” read Pavlovsky’s statement. “His audacious personality, his innovative and powerful approach to creation, as well as his dedication to craftsmanship and beautiful materials, will take Chanel in exciting new directions.”

The 40-year-old has served more than four years at Bottega Veneta (including three as its creative director), where his collections have steadily accumulated praise for their distinct vision and elevated playfulness. His trademark has become trompe l’oeil looks that gave leather the appearance of flannel shirts, paper grocery bags and denim jeans, among much else. Blazy’s creative innovation has translated to commercial success, too — a conversion that has often proved difficult in the fashion industry. While Bottega’s parent company Kering reported year-on-year revenue drops for its other big houses, Yves Saint Laurent and Gucci, the Italian label grew its sales the first half of 2024.

Born in Paris, Blazy — who is French-Belgian — studied at La Cambre visual arts school in Brussels. His starry portfolio includes internships at Balenciaga under Nicholas Ghesquière and for John Galliano. After graduating in 2007, he joined Raf Simons’ eponymous label as a menswear designer and would later work with him at Calvin Klein. He also held posts at Maison Margiela and Céline.

Blazy’s style is synonymous with slick, sophisticated tailoring, lashings of leather and off-beat accessories — all of which feel a far cry from Chanel’s heritage quilting and bouclé. But his appointment not only signals a visual update to the Chanel aesthetic, it may also be an attempt to future-proof the brand. In May, Chanel’s global chief executive officer, Leena Nair, stated a “desire to shape what’s next” and outlined how the brand’s “long-term perspective” guided their approach.

Viard, 62, made her exit from Chanel in June after holding the role of artistic director for five years following the death of Lagerfeld in 2019, but her tenure at the house was much longer. She started at Chanel as an intern in 1987 and went on to become Lagerfeld’s deputy for decades, totaling 30 years at the company. The pair were so professionally close, the German designer once described Viard as “my right arm and my left arm.”

Of his new job title, Blazy said in a press release: “I am thrilled and honored to join the wonderful House of Chanel. I look forward to meeting all the teams and writing this new chapter together.”

On Thursday, Bottega Veneta announced Louise Trotter as its new creative director.